ANNAPURNA CIRCUIT JULY/AUGUST 1999

On the 17^th July, eighteen girls from the LVI and Year V, accompanied by various adults and staff set out from Heathrow Airport for 26 days in Nepal. The expedition had a dual purpose: firstly to walk the Annapuma Circuit from Besisahar to Beni, crossing the Thorung La Pass at a height of 5416m (17.769ft); and secondly to work in two schools in Kathmandu at the end of the trek, teaching young Nepalese children.

The girls had spent a year preparing for the expedition and raising funds to support the education of a six year old Nepalese girl, Pasang Chutti Sherpa whose father, Kanchaa was the Sidar on their expedition. The team had the opportunity to meet Pasang in Kathmandu as well as getting to know Kanchaa out on trek.

The Annapuma Circuit is considered one of the classic treks of the world and it is an accomplishment of which all the girls can be truly proud, showing great mental and physical stamina and perseverance. All encountered a variety of experiences including buses stuck in ditches and mud, leeches, landslides, upset tummies, some interesting toilets and washing facilities (or lack of) and some very long days of hard walking in scenery that ranged from tropical forests to high and barren but beautiful mountain areas. They experienced climate conditions varying from tropical heat to snowstorms. They saw and absorbed many aspects of Nepalese life, religion and culture, learning a great deal about a way of life that is very different from their own.

During the expedition, every girl was given an opportunity to lead the group, liaise with the Sirdar and Trek Leader, brief the team, set the pace and choose the meals, look after those who were feeling unwell and write up the group diary at the end of the day.

Kathmandu

“After an extravagant breakfast on the rooftop of our hotel, we ventured into the town to change money and attempt to bargain in the first of our shopping sprees.
After lunch the team boarded rickshaws, instructed to pay no more than 40 rupees (they tried to charge us 250!) and set out at a hair raising pace for Durbar Square with the rickshaw drivers attempting to race one another through the crowded streets. We then had a forty minute walk to Swayambhunath, the Monkey temple where Hindus and Buddhists worship in harmony. The evening was spent sorting out our kitbags ready for the following day’s bus ride to Besisahar and the start of the trek.

The trek begins
We knew the day would be long but we never expected the events that followed. Our first taste of the real outdoors was when a few of us approached the toilets on our first stop. Gone were the images of the hotel’s lavish loos, being replaced by an overflowing shed. (We opted for a bush!)
After lunch things began to get more exciting when one bus was forced off the unmade road into a muddy ditch by an oncoming truck. The trekking team tinkered under the bus, the bonnet and various other places until a pulley system was finally established and hauled out the bus.
It was a boiling hot day, humid and tropical and the walking got harder and harder. The suspension bridges proved a challenge even to the bravest, especially the one made out of bamboo.

The walking was quite tough. The fact that we only climbed 122m. was deceptive, as it was very steep up and down all the way and the humidity did nothing to help. The main excitement was the marijuana plants which were subjected to much fascinated photography and cries of Is that it?’ At lunch we had our first experience of leeches as Mr. Carder-Geddes found one in his sock! At the lodge we played with the village children and Emma gave them an English lesson. There were some amazing views today with lots of spectacular waterfalls. Lots of bridges to cross too - a scary feeling when you are standing over the river watching the water rushing underneath,
Landslides! This was the main feature of the day (and several other days) There was one incredibly huge landslide where the whole of a hill had been taken out. We think that everyone underestimated the enormity of what nature could do. We had to get past our first very fierce yak and go through another Police Check point where I had to write down everybody’s details. Anna and I decided to have a go in the lodge kitchen helping to make Momos which involved a great deal of skill and Anna’s City and Guilds certificate was not adaptable to Nepalese cuisine!

We had incredible views of Annapuma 11 and IV and for once everyone was speechless. On the way we discovered that there was a festival taking place in a village nearby and saw horse racing, wrestling and dancing,

Crossing the Thorung La

The so-called hardest day of our lives began at 3.00am this morning in the freezing cold, wet, dark, having to force down porridge and coconut bread. We left at 4.30am, faced immediately with a long and steep climb. We must have looked quite a sight with all our head torches bobbing up and down. As dawn broke, we were still surrounded by fog and drizzle which gradually turned to sleet and snow and a cruel blizzard stung our skins. After coping for four hours with altitude, cold and the climb, it was time to have a quick break and a snack. At 9.27am, we finally saw that magic place.It was undoubtedly our finest hour - the top of the Thorong La. Chapped cheeks and numbed fingers where all forgotten in our elation.
A few tears were shed and there was a lot of group hugging in front of the huge cairn adorned with prayer flags. We then began the five hour descent (6,000ft) to Muktinath. We were treated to views of a spectacular glistening glacier and snow capped peaks, in stark contrast to the barren moraine through which we were walking. Finally at 1,30pm we could see Muktinath in the distance looking like an oasis. Food and rest were delayed by a visit to the renowned shrine of Muktinath where we thrilled to be able to wet our heads under the 108 blessed fountains.

We woke up this morning to the most spectacular views. Mountains could be seen for miles and everyone was in high spirits after crossing the pass the day before. Again, rivers proved to be a problem. Thankfully, due to the initiative of Mrs. Powell and Jenny P nearly everyone arrived on the other side dry. lona was especially grateful for a piggy back from one of the porters. After battling against the wind which drove stinging sand into our faces (sunglasses essential), we arrived in Marpha in much need of a good wash. The fact that by this time we had been in Nepal for two weeks was beginning to show. We were willing to wash at the village taps in the streets, entertaining all the villagers.’
The team completed the trek successfully. A much needed day’s rest was enjoyed in Pokhara before flying back to Kathmandu where the girls spent two days working in the Amar Shishi Vidyalaya School and the Bluebird School teaching a variety of lessons, an event enjoyed as much by the girls as the pupils.

Talking with the team towards the end, it is without a doubt that they all changed during the time spent in Nepal.

They became more aware of others and the world around them, and more tolerant and understanding. Some discovered that they DO have the ability to tackle problems and hardships and their self-confidence and initiative grew.
As well as a great bond of friendship, they all share many wonderful and unique memories.

Should your school or college be interested in a Himalayan Experience contact Andy Binns at Golden Hill Travel andy@goldenhilltravel.co.uk to discuss your plans.