The second day of the festival is the most keenly awaited, and the crowd gathers early, buzzing with excited laughter and chatter. In contrast to this highly charged atmosphere, the nuns of Devouche sit cross-legged and in silence, watching the comings and goings within the gompa. Each year they leave their nunnery to witness the Mani Rimdu. Their wrinkled, stoic faces reflect a way of life that is as hard as the mountain environment in which they live.

mani rimdu festival nepal The joker

The gompa is a square, three-storied edifice, recently rebuilt for the second time, having been destroyed in 1989 by an electrical fire. An earthquake half a century before demolished the original building. The entrance opens onto a courtyard paved with large, flat stones, overlooked by public balconies. At its centre, attached to a long wooden pole, is a banner inscribed with prayers to be carried on the mountain winds. Beside it is the altar, piled high with sacred objects, amongst them a skull bowl with a silver base and lid. Musicians occupy the south-facing balcony, and in the shadows to their left sits the Guru Rinpoche.
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